Comments on: Field Growing 2: Native soil http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/ Promoting and Expanding the Bonsai Universe Mon, 06 Feb 2012 23:07:09 +0000 hourly 1 By: Diabete http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-500 Diabete Wed, 11 Nov 2009 11:00:51 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-500 thanks for the great quality of your blog, each time i come here, i’m amazed. thanks for the great quality of your blog, each time i come here, i’m amazed.

]]> By: Roger Stones http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-394 Roger Stones Thu, 27 Aug 2009 06:20:42 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-394 Thank you Wayne - much appreciated. Thank you Wayne – much appreciated.

]]> By: wayne http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-391 wayne Wed, 26 Aug 2009 11:34:46 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-391 How far apart you plant your small trees will depend upon the type of tree, how developed it is when you plant it (at least two years old is recommended for seedlings and cuttings) and how long you plan on growing it before you dig it up and prune and spread the roots. The longer you let it grow without disturbance, the better for thickening trunks. However, if you want to develop a nebari (this is particularly important on most deciduous trees), you can't let it grow too long. Three to four years might be a pretty good (but flexible) rule of thumb. When I start with very small plants, I allow about 12" (30cm) for slow to moderate growth plants. For larger and rapid growth plants you want to allow considerably more space. How much depends upon the type of plant (does it spread or grow vertically) and how long you plan to let them grow before you dig them up. This first transplanting is a good time to place your tiles. How much soil you place on top of the tile depends upon the size of the tree, how thick and developed the roots already are, and other factors (like how fast your soil dries out). About 3 inches (5cm) for an average medium size plant might be a rough starting point. If you choose not to use tiles, you still want to prune and spread the roots when you dig. Because there are infinite variables, it's impossible to come up with hard and fast rules. Climate, type of soil, type of plants and your needs and tendencies are all factors that need to be considered. You may need to experiment for a while to see what works for you. How far apart you plant your small trees will depend upon the type of tree, how developed it is when you plant it (at least two years old is recommended for seedlings and cuttings) and how long you plan on growing it before you dig it up and prune and spread the roots. The longer you let it grow without disturbance, the better for thickening trunks. However, if you want to develop a nebari (this is particularly important on most deciduous trees), you can’t let it grow too long. Three to four years might be a pretty good (but flexible) rule of thumb.

When I start with very small plants, I allow about 12″ (30cm) for slow to moderate growth plants. For larger and rapid growth plants you want to allow considerably more space. How much depends upon the type of plant (does it spread or grow vertically) and how long you plan to let them grow before you dig them up.

This first transplanting is a good time to place your tiles. How much soil you place on top of the tile depends upon the size of the tree, how thick and developed the roots already are, and other factors (like how fast your soil dries out). About 3 inches (5cm) for an average medium size plant might be a rough starting point. If you choose not to use tiles, you still want to prune and spread the roots when you dig.

Because there are infinite variables, it’s impossible to come up with hard and fast rules. Climate, type of soil, type of plants and your needs and tendencies are all factors that need to be considered. You may need to experiment for a while to see what works for you.

]]> By: Roger Stones http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-390 Roger Stones Wed, 26 Aug 2009 07:50:49 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-390 I have questions? I am currently preparing a small land for field planting. 1) Is there an ideal spacing between trees? 2) Does one place the "root spreader? e.g. tile, immediately upon seedling/treeling planting and, if so, what depth seems to work best? Thanks. I have questions? I am currently preparing a small land for field planting. 1) Is there an ideal spacing between trees? 2) Does one place the “root spreader? e.g. tile, immediately upon seedling/treeling planting and, if so, what depth seems to work best?
Thanks.

]]> By: stuart goldhawk http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-387 stuart goldhawk Wed, 19 Aug 2009 09:19:05 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-387 Have bee studying various types of topsoil but am unsure about how the certification works,does anyone know what <a href="http://selectmaterialscom.moonfruit.com" rel="nofollow">different types</a> of grading mean, or is ther a site dedicated to this subject. Have bee studying various types of topsoil but am unsure about how the certification works,does anyone know what
different types of grading mean,
or is ther a site dedicated to this subject.

]]> By: wayne http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-364 wayne Tue, 04 Aug 2009 15:37:25 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-364 Thank you. We'll try to keep it interesting for you. Thank you. We’ll try to keep it interesting for you.

]]> By: Margaret http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-363 Margaret Tue, 04 Aug 2009 14:56:57 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-363 I recently came across your blog and have been reading along. I thought I would leave my first comment. I don't know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting this blog very often. Margaret http://howtomakecompost.info I recently came across your blog and have been reading along. I thought I would leave my first comment. I don’t know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting this blog very often.

Margaret

http://howtomakecompost.info

]]> By: Field Growing #6: What’s with S Shaped Curves? at Bonsai Bark Bonsai Blog http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-234 Field Growing #6: What’s with S Shaped Curves? at Bonsai Bark Bonsai Blog Sun, 24 May 2009 15:36:21 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-234 [...] Field Growing 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 « Green Workshop: The Art & Science of [...] [...] Field Growing 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 « Green Workshop: The Art & Science of [...]

]]> By: wayne http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-57 wayne Sun, 15 Feb 2009 11:11:31 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-57 a sinha and all, Thanks for the kind words and insights. There is a lot of good information in your posts. I'm way on board with the emphasis on organic matter in soil. Both clay and sand can be greatly improved by the addition of OM. Because I'm a little lazy and because the sandy soil here has some organic matter already, I just keep top dressing and let the particles leach into the soil. A gardener friend who I respects, says that's not enough, that I should dig the organic matter into the soil. Still, my lazy man's results are pretty good. a sinha and all,
Thanks for the kind words and insights. There is a lot of good information in your posts. I’m way on board with the emphasis on organic matter in soil. Both clay and sand can be greatly improved by the addition of OM. Because I’m a little lazy and because the sandy soil here has some organic matter already, I just keep top dressing and let the particles leach into the soil. A gardener friend who I respects, says that’s not enough, that I should dig the organic matter into the soil. Still, my lazy man’s results are pretty good.

]]> By: a sinha http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/06/field-growing-2-native-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-54 a sinha Fri, 13 Feb 2009 12:09:15 +0000 http://bonsaibark.com/?p=164#comment-54 my experience has been that of root rot. Clay just seems to trap a large amount of water and does not allow the roots to breathe, i do agree that it does keep nutrients intact for a longer time but i think the use of OM [ we get coconut fibre as peat ] top soil and around the root ball does well. i love your blog its great . would love to hear about Tropical plants too... my experience has been that of root rot. Clay just seems to trap a large amount of water and does not allow the roots to breathe, i do agree that it does keep nutrients intact for a longer time but i think the use of OM [ we get coconut fibre as peat ] top soil and around the root ball does well.
i love your blog its great . would love to hear about Tropical plants too…

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