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Tag Archive for 'Bonsai Today magazine'

Wire Sale: Someone, Somewhere is Wiring

Wire

A close up of wired branches on a Japanese black pine. From Bonsai Today magazine (I don’t remember which issue).

Time to Wire?
Not all types of trees are typically wired at the same time of year. And all climates aren’t the same anyway; spring in San Diego comes at least three months before spring here in Vermont (not to mention the bottom half of the planet where everything is backwards) and so forth. It probably goes without saying that all people aren’t the same either. Some ignore the advice of others and just wire when they want. Others strictly adhere to the old masters’ ways, but even the old masters’ ways vary some anyway. The upshot is, at any given time, someone, somewhere is wiring a bonsai. Why not you?

30% off and more coming
We are expecting a large shipment of wire from Japan sometime in April. Meanwhile, to make space (and a little cash), we are having a wire sale (30% off all wire). Go ahead and take advantage. You always need wire.

Aluminum
By the way, our wire is copper colored aluminum. It’s much easier to use than copper and less expensive too. And, it’s what most people want

Roy Nagatoshi Grafts Shimpaku Branches and Foliage onto a California Juniper

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Shimpaku foliage grafted onto a California juniper by Roy Nagatoshi. All of the photos in this post are by Dale Berman. They originally appeared in Bonsai Today issue 108 in an article by Marcus Juniel.

Shimpaku foliage on California junipers
California juniper foliage is heavy and somewhat coarse (I think it looks fine on native stock, but Shimpaku foliage is beautiful and looks even better) and many bonsai artist opt to graft on Shimpaku foliage.

leftApproach graft. The Shimpaku (scion) still has it roots in soil when it is joined with the stock. Once the graft has taken, it is cut off from its roots in a place and way that best hides the graft so that no (or almost no) traces of the procedure show. How this is done is a big part of the skill involved in grafting bonsai. This sketch and the one below are also from Bonsai Today issue 108.

Continue reading ‘Roy Nagatoshi Grafts Shimpaku Branches and Foliage onto a California Juniper’

A Moveable Feast European Style

rmaryBT85euro

Old Rosemary plants abound in Europe, so you’d expect to see some pretty good old Rosemary bonsai, and this semi-cacade certainly qualifies. It doesn’t hurt that it’s in a very cool pot. This photo is from Bonsai Today issue 85. Unfortunately, I don’t have the artist’s name with me (I’m traveling) so I can’t attribute. Anyone out there know?

Still on the road (thus the movable part of the title)
I’m still traveling so thought I’d just pluck this European gallery out of one of the folders I have on my desktop for just such occasions. Unfortunately, I can’t attribute because I don’t have access to the artist’s names. Maybe you can help.

junichineneuro

This twisty Shimpaku forest reminds me of Point Lobos (from the last time I was on the road). Like the one above, and the ones below, it’s from Bonsai Today issue 85.

Continue reading ‘A Moveable Feast European Style’

Snow!

snowBT56Look familiar? The photo is from the editorial page, Bonsai Today issue 56. The snow is courtesy of Mother Nature.

When the whole world (well, almost) turned white
Someone told me that 49 of the 50 US states had snow this winter. In northern Vermont, we don’t think much of it. But we don’t leave our bonsai out in the snow like in this photo. At least not in the dead of winter when it’s way too cold for that. The photo above is from Japan. In much of Japan you can leave your hardy trees out most, or all, of the winter, provided they are protected from harsh winds.

On the road again
You might have notice that the number of posts has diminished a little the last few days. I’m traveling right now, so finding the time and space to post is a bit tricky. We’ll be back up to full speed next week. Meanwhile, enjoy the snow while it lasts.

Bonsai Today 35: Going, Going, Almost Gone…

BT35

We are down to our last handful of Bonsai Today issue 35. Don’t wait if you want one.

A little taste…
… of what’s inside: Pine doctor, Pinching pines, Balancing vigor, Correcting root rot, Step by step end of summer care, Suiseki, Super restyling: Kimura styles a classic old Shimpaku, Bonsai gallery, Tokonoma: New Year display

…and some other issues while we’re at it
Bonsai Today issues 40 and 46 will soon be gone too. Several others in the 50s, 60s and even 70s are disappearing as well. Don’t wait if you want to fill our your collection.

Now is a good time!
But don’t wait. This sale ends Monday.

barksale


Masters’ Bonsai Gallery: Let’s Rock!

rockfront

This group of Needle junipers on a large rock by Norboru Kaneko won first prize at Sakufu-ten #12. It originally appeared in Bonsai Today issue 24 (long out of print). It also appears in our Bonsai Today Masters’ Series Juniper book (still in print).

Root-on-rock vs root-over-rock
The bonsai shown in this post are all root-on-rock, which means that the roots are growing in soil that is in pockets in the rock. Root-over-rock is where the rock sits in soil in a pot and the roots are trained to grow down over the rock and into the soil. We’ll do a post on these later.

rockfinished

Here’s another Needle juniper (with an azalea and some others) by Noboru Kaneko. Also from Bonsai Today 24 and our Juniper book.

rockgood

And one more. Same artist, same place.

nol500

Root-over-rock. Here’s a somewhat fuzzy example of root-over-rock (as contrasted with the root-on-rocks above), that comes from Noelanders Throphy XI – A Film by Merlin. You can see one root (with the white stripe) than snakes down the side of the rock. It’s actually functioning as trunk now; roots that are exposed to air will grow bark and become part of the trunk. This only works if the tips of the root are in soil. If the whole root, including the tips, is exposed to air for more than a few minutes, tips and all will begin to die.

Eccentric Bonsai: Fearless Master Kimura Again

kimyeweccent_corrected
Though it’s not as powerful as many other Kimura trees (see below), nor is it considered one of his classics, still, I can’t say enough about this tree, so I won’t say much except I apologize that it is a little cramped on the left side and that it’s a Yew and it’s from The Bonsai Art of Kimura (out of print though occasionally the ‘let’s reprint’ thought flits around).

There are eccentric bonsai and then…
… there are eccentric bonsai. That is, some trees we feature are just eccentric. Others are masterpieces that are also eccentric (unusual in some respect). My guess is that you can tell which category this one falls into.

I won’t spell it out…
… but it’s the trunk stupid! (just kidding about the stupid part). Magnificent and completely unique. I wonder how he did it? Did he split the original trunk and double it back on itself (he does highly unusual stuff like this sometimes; check our Kimura Flips a Tree Upside Down in our Juniper book). Or what? I await your comments (but won’t hold my breath).

bt56-p031-01

Here’s a more classic powerhouse by Master Kimura to feast your eyes. It’s from The Magician (Stone Lantern Publishing). It also appears in Bonsai Today issue 56.

Azalea Tips #2: The Language of Ramification

satThis old Satsuki azalea, with its massive trunk and wild display of mixed up flowers, is from our Satuski Azalea book by Robert Z. Callaham (Stone Lantern Publishing).

Ramification
Ramification just means branching. More specifically in bonsai (and other places) it is sometimes used to mean branch development or branch refining.

The language of ramification
Pruning

Pruning is a commonly used word that is loosely applied to mean any removal of all or parts of branches. More specifically it means removing branches rather than shortening branches, but this distinction is lost on many people.

Thinning
Thinning means removing unwanted branches or twigs (see illustration below).

Trimming
Trimming usually means shortening branches or twigs (see bottom illustration), or even new shoots (coming soon, stay posted), but is sometimes used to refer to removing them. Confused yet? Don’t worry about it; you’re not alone.

thinThinning branches. With any bonsai it is necessary to thin on a regular basis. Branches that grow into or crowd other branches, (see above), branches that grow in towards the center of the tree, parallel branches that grow too close to each other, branches that are too thick for where they are on the tree, unhealthy branches and etc, all need to be thinned. The illustrations in this post originally appeared in Bonsai Today issue number 1.

Continue reading ‘Azalea Tips #2: The Language of Ramification’

Azalea Tips: Developing New Branches

satsuki

An advanced, but unfinished stage in the development of a Satsuki azalea (see below for a later photo). There are at least three flower variations shown in this photo: all white, all pink, and pink and white striped. Satsuki azaleas are renowned for their vast and varied range of flowers. The photos and illustrations in this post are from Bonsai Today issue 1. The bonsai artist’s name is not mentioned.

Azaleas are easy
Azaleas respond extremely well to pruning during most of the growing season. You can cut off all the branches and new shoots will appear from the stubs (and from practically everywhere else). You can even whack the trunk down to almost nothing and new shoots will spring forth from whatever is left (even from the roots). This and other features like small leaves (on many but not all azaleas), small and beautiful flowers (ditto) and easy adaptability to container culture, make azaleas a favorite for bonsai enthusiasts.

Can you apply the same techniques to other types of trees?
Many of the tips provided in this and subsequent azalea posts will work with other types of trees. However, bear in mind that most trees are not as forgiving as azaleas, so don’t get carried away. It’s always a good idea to know the tolerance levels of whatever type of tree you are working with.

stubs

Leave stubs where you want new branches. If a bonsai has been neglected, it might be necessary to remove the old branches and start over (don’t try this with conifers or other trees that don’t bud back on old wood). If you leave stubs where you want new branches, shoots will grow from them and you’ll have a head start.

Continue reading ‘Azalea Tips: Developing New Branches’