This somewhat faded image of a somewhat amazing Japanese beech forest is from Bonsai Today issue number 4 (long out of print).
The popularity of beech forests
In Japan, Japanese beech (Fagus crenata) have long been a favorite for forest plantings. Their smooth almost white bark, fairly small leaves, fine branching and easy-to-work-with toughness, makes them a natural for bonsai. Here in the you not be able to find any Japanese beech, but don’t despair, most of the principles can be applied to other deciduous trees.
This not-so-faded slab planting is from Bonsai Today issue 99 (still available). See below for instructions on preparing a slab for planting.
Preparing the slab. From Bonsai Today issue 99.
Pirates
At least one blog has been pirating our posts, lock stock and barrel; but without our links and without any attribution to bonsai bark, or Stone Lantern. If you are reading this on any website or blog that is not ours, and is not attributed to us, then it has been pirated. Please visit us at bonsaibark.com. Thank you.
What’s the slab made from?
Hi Richard,
I’m traveling right now so can’t look up any of the original articles in Bonsai Today to see if I can find whether they are natural or man made, and if man made how and of what. Meanwhile here’s a pretty good article on making concrete slabs http://www.bonsaisocietyofbrevard.org/PDF/2007/News-04-07.pdf
I’ve gotten some great slabs of Pennsylvania blue slate from Joe Day in the past. It is dark enough, light enough, strong enough and easily shaped with ordinary tools to a natural looking shape.
I have done forests both on slabs, and in bonsai trays. Unable to get Japanese beech, I have used American beech (a bit coarser) and
American hornbeam, the later has smaller leaves, but both make nice forest plantings.
When planting on a slab, I put a coir or coconut fiber mat under the slab to keep the planting cool.
Thanks Alan.
Carving natural stone is definitely one way to go. Especially if you can find something that is both tough enough not to crack and split, yet pliable enough to carve. Your Pennsylvania blue slate sounds pretty good. Anyone else out there have any suggestions?
Thanks Jim,
Good advice. I take it that the mat absorbs moisture and slowly releases it for both cooling and to provide some humidity
One disadvantage to large trays is that the nice ones are so expensive. You’ll usually save money with slabs, but you’ll do more work.
I have two questions:
1) will ordinary shale work for slabs? I believe shale is a sedimentary rock like slate.
2) wasn’t there a decidous tree book? Like the Master series Juniper and Pine books?
Yeah. Shale is similar to slate and will work if you can find suitable pieces.
The deciduous book hasn’t been finished. No ETA at this point. We’ll let you know when and if it gets done.