Another ‘Newly Discovered’ Bonsai Artist

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Landscape bonsai by Juan Llaga. Juan doesn't say what kind of tree or how large it is. Still, it's easy enough to enjoy, with or without the vital statistics.

Just the other day we featured a post from the Philippines (photos courtesy of Bill Valavanis). Now we have another, and even though I found the sources independently, it turns out they are related by more than just the Philippines.

I always enjoy discovering previously unknown (to me) bonsai artists. This time it’s Juan Llaga of the Philippines. All the photos shown here are from Juan facebook feed.

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Same planting as above, set against a larger landscape that I assume is a painting.

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Another unidentified bonsai by Juan.

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A small part of the artist with a large Penjing landscape.

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Another landscape. The heavy trunks lend a feeling of age and stability. Again, no information given on trees or size, though you can imagine that it's quite large.

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The artist with some of his trees.

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That's Bill Valavanis headed west in this candid shot. The man with the mic is Juan Llaga. The photo was taken at the 2016 Philippine BCI Convention International Bonsai Art & Culture Biennial in 2014.
There’s a lot happening in the Philippines this year…
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Powerful Jaw Dropping Bonsai Six Months Later

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The second place tree at last fall's Artisans Cup. It's a Sierra Juniper that belongs to Tim Priest. The other winners are below (if you're wondering why we're leading with the second place tree... we'll we've already lead a post with the winner and I'm not so sure I care that much about winners (and by extension losers) anyway. Which begs the question...

It has been a few days short of six months since the Artisans Cup; a ground breaking event at the Portland Art Museum that featured more powerful jaw dropping bonsai than most people will ever see in one place and crowd sizes completely unprecedented at any North American bonsai event.

There’s a lot more I could say (and have said) but we’ll leave you with these photos and encourage you to plan for the next Artisans Cup (and the 5th U.S. National Bonsai Exhibition this fall which promises its own crop of jaw dropping bonsai).

EricshemlockEric Schikowski’s collected Mountain Hemlock was one of my favorites. It was also Peter Warren's first choice (Peter was one of the judges), though it wasn't awarded one of the three prizes (actually four; there were two third place winners). I borrowed this photo and the one below from Eric Shrader's PHUTU blog.

 

DougsFirHere's another one my favorites, and though it didn't place in the top three, it was Colin Lewis's first choice (Colin was one of the judges). It's a Doug fir that belongs to Doug Paul (sorry, couldn't resist).

 

ryansRyan Neil's massive Engelmann spruce (Picea engelmannii). This (pick your adjective) tree was not part of the bonsai display area, but rather sat alone in an inner lobby that you passed through on the way out of the display area. There's no way that you can appreciate just how massive it is, and though I didn't think to pace it off at the time, by memory (a risky proposition at best), I'd reckon that it must be about six or seven feet (approx 2 meters) across.

 

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This Japanese White Pine that belongs to Konnor Jenson was one of two third place trees.

 

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The other third place tree. It's a Rocky Mountain Juniper that belongs to Amy Blanton.

 

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The winner, a massive Rocky Mountain Juniper that belongs to Randy Knight.

About The Artisans Cup: The Artisans Cup is the premier exhibition of American Bonsai, located in the heart of Portland, Oregon. The Artisans Cup is led by Ryan and Chelsea Neil, founders of the groundbreaking Bonsai incubator Bonsai Mirai, located just 25 miles outside of Portland. 3,200 people attended the group’s first exhibition during the 17 hours it was open in late September 2015, making it one of the best-attended temporary exhibitions in the history of the Portland Art Museum.

Retrospective Teaser:

 

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Taming & Redirecting Growth on a Shohin Japanese Black Pine

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After styling. The tree is a Cork bark Japanese black pine. The hand belongs to the Ben Gliffin. If you compare this photo with the before photo just below, you can see some real progress with needle thinning and reduction. You might also notice how Ben has left the needles on the far left longer than the needles on top. This will encourage vigor in the direction of the longer needles.

The sweet little tree featured here is a Shohin Cork bark Japanese black pine that belongs to Ben Gliffin. If you know Japanese black pines you also know that it take a certain amount of skill and perseverance to keep them looking good. This has a lot to do with needle reduction, an ongoing challenge with many pines and especially with longer needle pines like the Japanese black.

I’m not sure how I missed Ben Gliffin in my digital and real time travels, but now, happily, we can add him to our list of accomplished bonsai artists. The three photos shown here are from Ben’s facebook feed.

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Before. Needles gone wild. You might notice how the needles on the top are the most vigorous. This apical dominance is to be expected with most trees and it explains (at least in part) why Ben reduced these needles more than the lower less vigorous ones.

 

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The other side. Here's Ben's caption: Lazy Sunday afternoon at home needle thinning and giving a little cork bark black pine its first styling in many years.

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Tiny Bonsai, Tiny Pots

har5There are few things more delicate and beautiful than fresh spring Maple leaves (Trident maple in this case). This exquisite tree and exquisite pot are perfect expressions of the artistry of Haruyoshi.

Out of town and running late today, so we’ll dip back into our archives. This one originally appeared April, 2014. It features a few of Haruyosi’s exquisite small bonsai. If you’ve been following Bark for a while, you know that Haruyosi is one of our favorites.

har6Red on red. In our last Haruyosi post (Very Red and Very Rare), we mentioned that red glazes are expensive and not that easy to do. Apparently, neither the cost nor difficultly deter Mr Haruyoshi. The tree is a Elaeagnus pungens (Siverthorn in English, Kangumi in Japanese).

 

harMore delicate spring beauty. This time the pot is yellow. It turns out that, like red pots, yellow pots aren't all the common. The tree is Malus halliana (Hall's crapapple).

 

har3This luscious little Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) looks old and yet is so small. As is the sweet little pot (small, not necessarily old). I know I've mentioned this before, but there's something about the brilliance and purity of quince flowers.
har4Just another Haruyosi masterpiece pot. Red and yellow together, but I guess you probably noticed.

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Armed for Bonsai

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This rather surprising photo is from Bill Valavanis' blog. After an initial whoa! what's going on here, I wondered what he was listening to. Strange.

Though these two photos speak very clearly for themselves, a little context might be in order. But I think I’ll leave that to Bill and his Welcome To My Bonsai World! blog where you can go and see for yourself. Aside from whatever interest the photos provoke, it’s always a link worth clicking.

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Black Hills Bonsai, Before & After

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Another Suthin bonsai on a rock. This one is a Black Hills Spruce (Picea glauca var. densata). The contrast with this photo and the before photo below will give you a good idea of Suthin's vision and skill.

These two photos beg more questions than I can answer right now (time constraints, you know). So we’ll leave them for another time. Meanwhile, take a close look if you have the time and see what questions come to mind.

Both photos shown here are from Suthin’s facebook feed.

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Before. It's hard to believe this is the same tree. In fact if it weren't for the little jin sticking out on the left, you might question if it is the same tree. The foliage looks quite different and that can't be the same rock. Suthin must have changed his mind.

If you are interested, here’s what The South Dakota Dept of Agriculture has to say about the Black hills spruce.

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Power, Elegance & a Bonsai Youth Movement

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Sheer power. This impressive Japanese white pine was styled by Naoki Maeoka. In his own words: Every single branch of each tree was looked at carefully, and strong branches were cut, while leaving the soft ones to balance the foliage. Then I detail wired the entire tree to put the remaining branches in an ideal position. Trees were simply wired in these positions for the time being. It's not the final goal of styling. It's a new beginning towards achieving that eventual goal.

The two trees shown here couldn’t be that different in terms of styles and effects. The Japanese white pine above with its heavy trunk and dense crown is all about power and solidity, while the Shimpaku juniper below is light, airy and graceful.

What the two trees shown here share is the hand and eye of Naoki Maeoka, a highly accomplished young Japanese bonsai artist. I mention his youth because there has been concern that young people weren’t taking up bonsai. Especially in Japan, but also in the West. This may still be true to some extent in Japan, but less soin the West, with a whole new generation cropping up (led by apprentices returning from Japan). Just in time!

This isn’t the first time and won’t be the last. We’ve featured Naoki Maeoka and his remarkable bonsai several times here on Bark. Both of the photos shown here are from Bonsai Empire, via Pinterest.

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Elegance. You don't usually see trees quite like this in nature, with that series of small S-curves working their way up the trunk (a mark of bonsai styling). Still, it's a beautiful bonsai, tall, graceful and perfectly balanced. And it has a couple features that give a little extra character: the small second trunk (held in place by a guy wire) and that knee sticking up next to the main trunk. The tree is a Shimpaku juniper.

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The Art & Science of Watering

b1junwateringThis drawing is from our Masters' Series book; Junipers, Growing & Styling Juniper Bonsai.

This is at least the fifth time we’ve featured this post (with some text added and some edited), but spring is here for many of you and summer is coming, so the time is right.

I know that many of you have mastered or at least are proficient in the art of watering, but you might be surprised how many people need help. In fact, failure to become proficient in watering is no doubt the single most common reason people give up on bonsai. So, don’t give up. Learn to water! Bonsai is fun and a deeply rewarding endeavor.

Without timely, intelligent watering, any plant in a container is at risk. The more you know about watering, the better. BTW: A perfect complement to this post is a post about summer misting (hamisu) by Michael Hagedorn.

 

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Photo from Shohin Bonsai by Morten Albek.

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A good watering wand is a must. Especially if you have lots of trees to water.
Watering CansA good watering can is a valuable tool if you grow indoor bonsai and very useful if you only have a handful of outdoor trees.

Over the course of my thirty plus years working with bonsai the thing that most amazes me is how little some people know about watering (it has gotten better over the years, but still…). Brown thumbs abound.

One of the traits that people in the brown thumbed tribe share is a desire for easy answers. Don’t confuse me with valuable information, just tell me what to do. Or, in other words how often do I water? But this is the wrong question. A better question would be how do I know when to water?

The simple answer is water when the soil is dry. Not bone dry, but almost completely dry to the touch. There are exceptions of course, based mostly on common sense, but this will work in most cases.

Just a little plant science can go a long ways. Plants absorb most of their water and nutrients when the water content of the soil is 20% to 50% of the available space (25% to 10% of the total space including the soil).

Available space is the space in the pot that is not taken up by solid matter. In other words, it is the space that can accommodate water and air. This space is found between soil particles and in pockets, holes and cracks within soil particles. Optimal available space for most bonsai is around 50% (with soil particles taking up the other 50%).

If you water thoroughly, the water washes all the air out of the container. At that moment the water content is 100% of available space. If your soil drains properly, excess water will run out immediately and the available space will contain a mixture of water and air.

Ideally, you want this mixture of water and air to quickly reach around 50% water and then slowly dry down to about 20% water in the available space. In other words, you want soil with excellent drainage and with good water retention at the optimal levels.

How long soil holds water at optimal levels depends upon all kinds of things: your soil mix, size and type of pot, sun, heat, wind, temperature, time of year and health of the plant, to name a few. This goes back to that mistaken question, “how often do I water?” Rather than the better question, how do I know when to water?  You water when the soil is almost dry (and you drink when you’re thirsty).

Just a heads up. Nothing dries soil faster than hot sun and wind. Especially together. So be careful. Sometimes it’s better to err on the side of more (and sometime less). This is where common sense comes into play.

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Trees don't necessarily dry down at the same rate. Skip the ones that are still wet and water the ones that are dry or almost dry.

Soak thoroughly when you water. In order to dispel all the old stale air and to assure the soil is thoroughly watered, make sure you really soak the soil whenever you water.

Then wait until it’s almost dry to water again. To assure that the water/air mixture goes through the optimal range for water and nutrient retention, wait until the soil is almost dry before you water again (there are occasional exceptions, but that’s for another time).

Soil is key. So, for the two of you who have read this far, it should be clear that good soil is one of the keys to bonsai health. Without complicating matters by going into the numerous soils on the market, if the soil you are using doesn’t allow for good drainage while providing some water retention at optimal levels, then it’s time to try a better soil.

Though some people say there are as many soil mixes and there are bonsai growers, here in North America many growers are using soil mixes that contain lava and pumice. Akadama from Japan is also popular. A little research into what other bonsai enthusiast in your area are using is a good idea.

Okay. After all that work, it’s time for a commercial….

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